Craster and the Snowy Owl

Welcome to our first guest blog for Your Northumberland. First, a little introduction. I’m Harriet, chief writer and restaurant-picker, whilst Alex is chief route planner and pub finder. We are adopted Geordies, having lived in Newcastle for 4 years. We love the outdoors and food, luckily these two go hand-in-hand in this part of the world. This is our Northumberland...  For our first blogging ,adventure we decided to go up to one of our favourite parts of the coast; Craster. 

 The plan was to walk the 5 mile path up along the coast to Dunstanburgh Castle and back across the farm track. According to our AA walking guide taking 1hour 45 minutes, leaving plenty of time for a hearty pub lunch at the Jolly Fisherman, or so we thought. We whizzed up the A1 in Derek’s little KA (we take our friend Derek walking with us when we can’t find a dog to adopt) and soon arrived at Craster- about 45 minute drive from Newcastle. We parked in the car park for a reasonable £2 all day fee and started our walk, first down to the harbour. 

A short break at the harbour, to take some photos and for some faffing whilst Derek runs back to the car park to check he’s locked his car, and we are on our way again. We soon join a muddy path of families and fishermen trekking across the fields, the former wrapped up warm in colourful hats and scarves, the latter carrying bucket loads of tackle. For some reason it doesn’t seem right to be amongst a crowd on our frosty Sunday stroll, so we drop down to the rock pools to the right of the path, which are just beginning to ice over. 

It is down here where we get our first majestic view of the skeletal like structure that is Dunstanburgh Castle. You can’t help but imagine how imposing and incredible it must have been in its hay day. We rejoin the footpath further up the coast and walk up to the ruined castle. We don’t however pay to go in like most, in my opinion the real beauty is to be seen from the outside (plus we were saving our pennies for lunch). 

Walking round the side of the castle was one of the trickier mud negotiations, but we made it. Embleton bay appears around the corner and it would be hard to suppress the child-like urge to run around kicking up sand. This is one of our favourite beaches in Northumberland and I am not disappointed even in the icy conditions. In the past we have continued walking up to Newton by the Sea to the Ship Inn, but hunger calls and we decide to continue along our mapped route and walk back to Craster. 

We up the pace when we realise it is approaching 2pm. Past the golfers, through a farm and along the farm track; we turn around and head back South. Being set back from the coast by about ½ mile we appreciate the beauty of Dunstanburgh Castle from new angles; it really is my favourite castle. The path hooks a left and takes us over the Heughes which are really quite an impressive natural landscape. Some minor map negotiation errors cause us to head purposefully towards a new stone wall which isn’t on the map- watch out for this! We arrived back to the sleepy fishing town at 3pm exactly, just missing last orders for food at the Jolly Fisherman, which stop, at 3pm, exactly.

I do aim to support local, especially as part of my job at Taste North East www.tastenortheast.co.uk but they make it so difficult sometimes with their opening hours! Instead we head back to the car and off to the Snowy Owl at Blagdon. Part of the Vintage Inn chain the Snowy Owl lacks seaside charm but at least we can count on it being open, at what I would class as optimum Sunday lunch time. 

We pop ourselves down at a table, noticeably much more mucky than the other diners, and there is that great smell of an open fire crackling away somewhere in the large pub. They have actually just done the pub out, to coincide with the opening of Northumberlandia right on its doorstep, and it does have a warm and welcoming atmosphere. We order, to my disappointment not a single local producer on the menu as far (as I could see) and eagerly await our food. I go for a duo of venison (just to play the wild card) and the boys opt for classic gammon and chips.

The food was just slightly above average. The mash tasted like smash and the venison shepherd’s pie thing added absolutely nothing to the plate. However the venison itself was tasty and I can’t remember the last time or if I’ve ever had venison before so I was happy to give that a go. Peas are peas. Apparently the gammon was good and came with both egg and pineapple which is always a bonus, although it did leave Alex and Derek still hungry. Our waitress was friendly and service was quick, we also had a 20% discount voucher which came in handy.

Our advice to you would be; wear wellies and get up early so that you make lunch at the Jolly Fisherman! Enjoy!

Harriet and Alex

For more information about Craster and Dunstanburgh Castle visit our Craster Guide!

A Romance Writer’s Love Affair …

Whenever we have guests up from the south, I feel jealous that they are about to experience that ‘wow’ moment I had when I arrived here over thirty years ago. Before the end of the visit someone will invariably say - usually while staring out over yet another fantastic view -‘I had absolutely no idea this was all here …’

I can’t blame them. Before I moved to Northumberland, I had a very sketchy idea of the county. Now I am almost evangelical in my attitude towards the place and happy to bore anybody’s ear off about how wonderful it is.

It’s hard to remember what impressed me the most when I first arrived, although I know I was struck immediately by the light – on a clear day there’s a diamond sharp clarity that can’t fail to lift your spirits and I loved the freshness of the air. Sure it was a couple of degrees colder than I was used to, but it seemed a small price to pay. Another big plus was the people. The humour here is wry and self deprecating and the warmth feels genuine. The overall tendency is to include rather than avoid eye contact and sidle away.

The rich history of the place also pulled me in – the Romans, the Scots, the great landed families, the English Civil War – they’ve all left their mark with walls and castles, churches and bastle houses.

What really clinched it for me though was the wild, often rugged, nature of the scenery. There are clipped and managed places here, and very beautiful they are too, but it’s the untamed things I love the best. The places that offer a sense of space and freedom, from the high moors to the dark, pine-sweet forests and, of course, the stunning coastline.

 Ah, that coastline and those beaches. On the very best days the light is blond, the sea is blue, there’s a castle or a lighthouse somewhere in the picture and the sand is a great sweep of pale, soft yellow that rears up into sand dunes behind you. Even on the worst of days as the wind whips sand into your face and takes your breath away, and the spray flies off the waves pounding towards the beach, you feel alive and part of nature. And you’ll rarely have to lay down your towel to reserve a space.

So, my favourite beach? When the children were younger it was Alnmouth with its old-fashioned bucket-and-spade feel or Bamburgh for sledging down the sand dunes. But what about Warkworth, Embleton, the mighty Druridge Bay? They’ve all afforded hours of good walking, nature watching or just sheer enjoyment at being out in the fresh air with the taste of salt on my lips.

If pressed though, I would choose Low Newton.  I defy anybody who comes in by road not to be stunned by that first view as you clear the brow of the hill. It’s a cracking combination of sand, rock, grassy dunes, little beach huts and the great, ruined beauty of Dunstanburgh castle. Oh, and the pub is pretty fine too.

When I set my second book in Northumberland, I made some of the most poignant scenes happen on that beach and I had Mack, a dyed-in-the-wool southerner, completely bowled over by it.  I guess I wanted to show that original ‘wow’ moment that I had. Who knows, in the process, I might also have encouraged people who haven’t discovered the county, to give it a try.

Hazel Osmond’s second book ‘The First Time I Saw Your Face’ is set in Hexham, around Wark and at Low Newton. It’s available in paperback and on kindle. Her first book ‘Who’s Afraid of Mr Wolfe?’ was shortlisted for Romantic Comedy of the Year.

For more information visit www.hazelosmond.co.uk

The Coquetvale Hotel in Rothbury - Sunday Carvery

Sunday Lunch at the Coquetvale Hotel

I'm not going to go into full details here as we've reviewed the wonderful Italian restaurant at The Coquetvale Hotel in Rothbury before. When we heard that they were now offering a carvery on a Sunday we just had to check it out and we were not disappointed! It's the same high standards we've come to expect from Chris and his friendly team and is surely an early contender for the best Sunday Lunch in Northumberland title that will once again be decided by the year end! High praise indeed.

Starters were very reasonably priced, well presented and extremely tasty. The pate can be seen below and we can also recommend the crab cake which was particularly delicious (and generous in size!).

The star of the show is definitely the carvery, everything is served to you by the friendly chef.... he even carried my mum's plate to the table for her! There was a choice of beef (medium or well done - something I've only seen at one other carvery in Northumberland - the award winning Battlesteads Hotel in Wark), turkey and a glazed ham. I had a mix of ham and beef and both meats were a delight. On top of what you can see below vegetables were then brought to the table, carrots, broccoli, french beans, more potatoes and creamed leeks in a cheese sauce, all wonderful!

Desserts also sounded delightful, but we simply didn't have room! This was an outstanding lunch, you simply must visit.

Contact Details
Restaurant Italia Plus at The Coquetvale Hotel

Station Road
Rothbury
Northumberland
NE65 7QH

Tel: 01669 622900
Fax: 01669 620379

email: stay@cvhotel.co.uk
Web: www.coquetvale.co.uk